PROFILES IN BREWING by Bobby Bush, author of "Beer & Loafing"
John Stuart of Park Tavern Brewery & Restaurant in Atlanta GA
After a short flirtation with homebrewing while a senior in high school, John Stuart started brewing again four years later at the insistence of his roommate who had discovered the dusty brewing equipment in a closet. A little more serious about the hobby this time, John entered the Bluebonnet Homebrewers Competition, a statewide judging sponsored by the North Texas Homebrewers Club, in May 1987. Shortly thereafter, the blue-ribbon winning homebrewer was approached by the assistant brewmaster from Reinheitgesbot Brewing Company. The Plano TX microbrewery, also known as Collin County Brewery, was looking for help. Working mostly as a volunteer, this opportunity started the ball rolling, turning hobby into occupation for the young brewer.
Interested in learning more about brewing than the bottling line would reveal, John soon looked elsewhere for full-time employment. He found Addison Brewing Company in the early stages of formation. He signed on with the new company in August, 1988. Fourteen months of installation and preparation later, Double Eagle Lager, hit the marketplace. Unfortunately, the under-funded brewery soon succumbed to the typical financial and family ownership problems.
A chance meeting with Paul Smith, who was in Dallas for Triathlon competition, was fortuitous. Smith was founder and principal owner of The Mill Bakery Eatery Brewery, which at that time had two locations, Gainesville and Tallahassee FL. Stuart signed on in 1990, taking what would become a long, long ride on a booming brewpub chain.
The Mill had chain-aspirations. John moved to Tallahassee to become the corporate brewer. He was intimately involved with the design, training and start-up of each new Mill brewery, traveling to Orlando, Charleston, Baton Rouge, Charlotte, Knoxville, Nashville and where Mill business took him. There would be 17 Mills, though not all brewed their own beer. To avoid regulatory problems, 30-barrel micro Beach Brewing Company was founded by The Mill owners to supply the restaurants.
Due to the fragmented ownership of each location, every Mill was vastly different. Some were more successful with beer than others. When Smith purchased a building in Atlanta in late 1995, John jumped at the brewing job. With a smile on his face, he moved to the Peach State in 1996. Situated in midtown, bordering historic Piedmont Park with a beautiful view of the downtown skyline, this Mill opened on July 8, 1996 at the height of the Olympic craze.
As The Mill chain spiraled toward disenfranchisement in 1999, Smith purchased the Atlanta store outright. He was anxious to develop a more localized identity for his newly independent establishment. Capitalizing on the popularity of grassy Piedmont Park, Park Tavern was selected as the brewpub's name.
Stuart keeps five or six Park Tavern beers on tap at all times. Named for a nearby neighborhood, Druid Hills, another Olmstead creation, Druid Pils is mild in hoppiness, as far as pilsners go. John's two other "got to have" beers are Park Trail Ale and Olmstead Amber. Usually the fourth beer on tap, Piedmont Porter was first brewed as a bridal ale for Paul Smith's wedding back in Florida. Though it never fit in at the Florida brewpubs, Atlanta has become a perfect home for the Porter.
Other rotating Park Tavern beers include Irish Stout. Bavarian in style, John's Hefeweizen is 50% German Pils malt (Scarlet) and 50% Pale Wheat malt. Winter Brew is usually a Scottish Ale, though in 2001 John experimented with a Belgian Abbey Dubbel. Given time and tank space, Oktoberfest greets the autumn season with a sweetish combination of Vienna and Munich malts, German Hallertau hops and a requisite lager yeast.
John's philosophy in offering such a spectrum of products is somewhat defiant: "I don't necessarily go for a beer that offends no one. I go for beers that are aggressive within their style." Too often, he's been disappointed in a bar's of brewpub's line-up of similar tasting beers.
Fate introduced John Stuart to homebrewing and professional brewing. Now one of the South's most seasoned brewers, he's made the best of the experience. With over 15 years in the business, he still takes pride and pleasure with every pint sold.
500 10th St. NE, Atlanta, GA 30309-4272 (404) 249-0001, Fax: (404) 249-0017
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